User:Vaynissa/Draft1

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The natural hair movement was born in the USA during the 2000s[1][2]. This movement is named ′mouvement nappy′ in French-speaking countries. [3][4][5][6].

Definition and et features[edit]

The movement designates black women who want to keep their afro-textured hair. The ′nappy′ word has been subjected to denigration since the atlantic slave trade. Thereafter, some Afrodescendants has positively taken the word back, considered in francophone countries as a backronym made up of ′natural′ and ′happy′[3][7][8][9].

These women, called ′nappy girls′ or ′nappies′, give straightening up and let their hair grow in her natural texture. Their haircuts can be simple or more sophisticated, by the adoption of hair twists, braids or even locks[3][10].

Nappy hair : Ariadne's thread in the History of Afro-descendants[edit]

The unconscious relationship that some Afrodescendants have with their afro-textured hair can be approached in a reverse chronological order.

Since the 2000s, in the USA, then in France and in Africa, some black women have realized that their nappy hair can be beautiful. This calls into question the subconscious internalized association nappy = ugly ; They stop therefore to comply with the dominant aesthetic ideal beautiful hair = smooth hair. Through their hair, the nappies thus reconcile with their africanness[3][11][12].

This return to naturalness, at the organic era[13][14], has been encouraged by the awareness of the harmful effects of relaxers on scalp: itchings, red patches, burns, broken hairs or worse: alopecia (hair loss). However, among black women, 98% have their hair straithened at less one time in their lives ; and relaxers have represented no less than 70% of the cosmetic purchases carried out by the population. In the 1980s-1990s, the straightening had been mainstreamed[8].

Sooner, in the 1970s-1980s, the ′Jheri curl′, an other technique to loosening the nappy hair, became fashionable in the African-American community, popularized especially by some celebrities like Michael Jackson in Thriller.

During these same years, a new hairstyle appeared too: dreadlocks (naturally matted hair locks), popularized by Bob Marley and more generally by reggae music and the Rastafarian movement. This hairstyle can be a mark of social and spiritual distinctions: ′the adoption of long or very atypical hair [can reflect] rebellion or a refusal of the dominant values.′[15][9]

An ashanti African comb (Ghana).

Previously, in the 1960s-1970s, the racial segregation between the black and the white had reigned in the United States. Angela Davis, a young human rights activist and member of the revolutionary movement Black Panthers created in 1966, made the ′Afro hairstyle′ famous. This dense and spherical hairdressing thus symbolized the emancipation and cultural affirmation of the African Americans. It was adopted by many stars like Diana Ross or the Jackson 5[4][7][9][16][6].

A century earlier, in 1865, slavery is abolished at the end of the American Civil War. Nevertheless, Black populations had looked for straightening their nappy hair, so as to move closer to the dominant aesthetics, if only to find employment. At the time, the most use instrument was the hot comb, until 1909, when Garrett A. Morgan invented a revolutionary relaxer cream[17][7][6][15].

During the atlantic slave trade, the conditions of servitude had not allowed to take care of one's hair, which had been subjected to denigration by the master : 'nappy′ had become pejorative.[18][19]

The deportation of millions of Africans get them separated from their originally aesthetic activities regarding hair care [17].

In the ancestral traditions, hairdressing is ′an activity during which the genealogy history and many other cultural features were taught to children. Every African hairdressing was codified according to the ethnic group and by status′[6].

It is the loss of this instrument [the African comb], all the more valuable that it is essential to the nappy hair care, which is going to dissociate Black people from the nature of their own hair, considered therefore as ′difficult to comb′. (...) The African was snatched from his comb when he was snatched from his native land and thus taken away from an irreplaceable cultural symbol, legacy and accessory from his beauty culture.

— Juliette Sméralda, Peau noire, cheveu crépu : l'histoire d'une aliénation

The natural hair movement today[edit]

For about ten years, thanks to Web 2.0, a growing number of people have been sharing their beauty advice via:

These websites have expanped the natural hair movement around the world so as to highlight the black beauty[3][4][17].

Each woman has her own reasons to retrieve her authenticity: some of them want to preserve her hair against agressive hair styling methods (weavings too tight) or harmful straightening chemical products ; for others, they prefer nappy hair aesthetically in spite of the pressure from the dominant aethetic[8][6][11][7].

The natural hair movement has been encouraged by the choice performed by some stars to abandon straightening in favour of a comeback to their natural hair: amongst the nappies icons, there are Erykah Badu[64][65], Aïssa Maïga[3][66], Lupita Nyong'o[67][68], Solange Knowles[17][3][9][11][69], Inna Modja[3][8][70] or even Janelle Monáe[66][4].

Outside of USA, several events has developed in order to accompany the natural hair movement, particularly in France and in Africa:

  • The salon ′Boucles d'ébène′ : a demonstration, has existed for ten years, dedicated to the black hairdressing and beauty[3][40][71][41].
  • The ′Miss Nappy Paris′ competition: the election of ′Miss Nappy′ so as to promote the afro hair beauty[3][72].
  • The ′Massalia Nappy Days′: lectures, projections of documentaries and fashion shows[73].
  • The ′Crépue d'ébène Festival′ at Abidjan (Ivory Coast): dedicated to the natural beauty of the African woman and to the highlighting of the nappy hair[74].
  • The ′Natural Hair Academy′: event to better understand the nappy hair, days of advice by speakers[3][44].
  • The ′AfricaParis Festival′ : dedicated to the afropean culture[3].

Criticisms[edit]

Some nappies, dubbed ′nappex′ (nappies considered extremists), become radicalised and claim that hair straightening is a mark of self disavowal.These guilt-laden are denounced by India.Arie and her song ′I Am Not My Hair′[17].

Nappy lexicon[edit]

Serveral words are frequently used in the vocabulary of the natural hair movement[4][10][75][76][77]:

  • nappy girl : black woman who keeps his hair in its natural texture
  • big chop : ′the big chop' consists in cutting one's straightened hair and let it grow in its natural texture
  • bantu knot : little cabbages rolling on themselves
  • transition : weaning period against straightening product
  • protective hairdressing : like braids that preserve hair ends
  • tiny afro : little afro haircut
  • twist : double braids
  • twist out : hairdressing that permits to curl one's afro
  • yarn locks : braids performed with wool
  • frohawk : hairdressing closed to the mohawk hairstyle
  • shrinkage : narrowing of the hair fiber in contact with water
  • nappex : nappies considered extremists
  • co-wash : washing one's hair with after-shampoo

Notes and References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e f Template:Dr-make parameter {{{2}}} must be y, d, c, or m Josephine Metcalf and Dr. Carina Spaulding, African American Culture and Society After Rodney King: Provocations and Protests, Progression and "Post-Racialism", Ashgate Publishing Limited, 25/06/2015
  2. ^ Bustle, The History Of Natural Black Hair, Plus How 2014's Afro Has A Whole New Meaning , 20/06/2014
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p Le Monde, Crépues et fières de l’être, 05/02/2015
  4. ^ a b c d e f Le Point, Nappy, ce mouvement conquérant de la planète afro, 19/12//2014
  5. ^ Good Hair, 2009 movie directy by Jeff Stilson and produced by Chris Rock.
  6. ^ a b c d e Jeune Afrique, Juliette Smeralda : « Le modèle de beauté qu'on vend aux femmes du continent n'est pas africain », 06/11/2014
  7. ^ a b c d RFI, Le mouvement Nappy : défrisage et cheveux crépus, released on 16/01/2013
  8. ^ a b c d France Ô, La beauté noire, un marché porteur, released in 2014
  9. ^ a b c d e TV5 Monde, Dépigmentation de la peau et phénomène Nappy, January 2015
  10. ^ a b L'Express, Parlez-vous le nappy?, 03/10/2012
  11. ^ a b c d e f g Jeune Afrique, Mode : La vague « Nappy » déferle en Afrique, 06/11/2014
  12. ^ Mwalimu J. Shujaa, Kenya J. Shujaa, The SAGE Encyclopedia of African Cultural Heritage in North America, SAGE Publications, 15/02/2015
  13. ^ Madame Figaro, Les cheveux ont faim, 11/11/2007
  14. ^ INA, La phytothérapie, 07/11/2007
  15. ^ a b Juliette Sméralda, Peau noire, cheveu crépu : l'histoire d'une aliénation, Jasor, 2004
  16. ^ Marie Claire,Le nappy hair, nouvelle tendance des cheveux Afro30/04/2015
  17. ^ a b c d e Madame Figaro, Nappy hair : la revanche des femmes noires, 25/07/2014
  18. ^ Maxine Leeds Craig, Ain't I a Beauty Queen?: Black Women, Beauty, and the Politics of Race, Oxford University Press, 2002
  19. ^ Common Dreams NewsCenter, Why 'Nappy' Is Offensive', 12/04/2007
  20. ^ a b c d Template:Dr-make parameter {{{2}}} must be y, d, c, or m Johnson Elizabeth, Resistance and Empowerment in Black Women's Hair /Styling, Ashgate, 28/07/2013
  21. ^ Huffington Post, Leila Noelliste's Life May Be Unconventional, But It's Awesome, 13/06/2014
  22. ^ Business Wire, Ultra/Standard Acquires TextureMedia, 21/09/2015
  23. ^ Huffington Post, CurlyNikki Responds To Ebony.com's Rejection Of White Women Joining #TeamNatural, 07/07/2014
  24. ^ Ayana Byrd and Lori Tharps, Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America, St. Martin's Press, 12/01/2002
  25. ^ a b Lola Akingbola, 8 Weeks to Longer Hair!: A Guide for the Afro-Caribbean Woman. Discover Your Hair's Growth Potential!, Xlibris, 15/07/2013
  26. ^ Jeffery A. Riley, 2011 Social Media Directory: The Ultimate Guide to Facebook, Twitter, and LinkedIn Resources, Que Publishing, 25/08/2010
  27. ^ Derald Wing Sue, Miguel E. Gallardo and Helen A. Neville, Case Studies in Multicultural Counseling and Therapy, John Wiley & Sons, 12/08/2013
  28. ^ Le Parisien, Les nappys : afro, belles et contentes, 10/04/2014
  29. ^ Amina, Fatou N’diaye, 26/04/2014
  30. ^ RFI, Le mouvement Nappy : défrisage et cheveux crépus, 16/01/2013
  31. ^ Alexa, Audience Afrobelle.com in France, retrieved 30/05/2015
  32. ^ Maxi, Cheveux afro : les coiffer sans difficulté, 10/06/2015
  33. ^ a b c Salon Boucles d'Ébène, Bloguer en 2015 : Une passion ou un métier, 30/05/2015
  34. ^ L'Express, Ivy Mag: « La beauté d’aujourd’hui est multiple et diversifiée », 15/02/2013
  35. ^ Diane Carol Bailey and Diane Da Costa, Milady Standard Natural Hair Care & Braiding, Cengage Learning, 03/07/2013
  36. ^ Bustle, The Curlmix Subscription Box Is Like Birchbox For Curly Girls Who Love To DIY, 02/09/2015
  37. ^ Hellocoton, Masque Super hydratant Coco, Huile d'avocat et Banane inspiré de Racines Crépues - Par Maïka, 01/05/2013
  38. ^ 42 513 ′Likes′ on Facebook the 30/08/2015
  39. ^ Le Monde, Du cheveu à retordre au salon « Boucles d’Ebène », 01/06/2015
  40. ^ a b Réseau Outre-Mer première, Aline Tacite, fondatrice du salon Boucles d'Ébène : "Nous chérissons nos cheveux crépus, frisés, bouclés et ondulés", 30/05/2015
  41. ^ a b Juliette Sméralda, Du Cheveu défrisé au cheveu crépu, Broché, December 2012
  42. ^ L'Express, Bellebene organise sa Hair Academy d'été spéciale cheveux bouclés, 24/06/2013
  43. ^ Elle, Les cheveux crépus et frisés ont leur salon, 28/06/2013
  44. ^ a b Elle Belgique, La Natural Hair Academy : le rendez-vous des nappy girls, 17/03/2014
  45. ^ a b Madame Figaro, Beautiful black blogs : huit filles à suivre sur le Net, 29/06/2015
  46. ^ Cosmopolitan, Black and Beautiful, blog à la Une Beauté de Cosmo, retrieved 01/09/2015
  47. ^ 78 018 ′Likes′ on Facebook the 06/10/2015
  48. ^ CNN International, Ivory Coast's natural hair movement is turning heads, 17/02/2015
  49. ^ Camer Post, Cameroun – Soins capillaires : Le cheveu naturel revient au galop, 17/07/2015
  50. ^ Destiny, Hair recipe: Aisha’s daily spritz, 06/07/2015
  51. ^ Le Journal du Mali, Nappy de Bamako : Plus qu’un phénomène de mode, un retour aux sources, 10/09/2015
  52. ^ NigerDiaspora.net, Beauté africaine - Le retour de l'afro : Elles sont de plus en plus nombreuses à se mettre au nappy et à l'afro., 05/10/2014
  53. ^ Madame Figaro, Du Web à la grande distribution, le marché de la beauté noire fait sa révolution, 15/07/2015
  54. ^ PRWeb, NY-Based Caribbean Food Retailer Turns 14, Offers Free Shipping to US Troops, 06/10/2007
  55. ^ Huffington Post, How to Get Rid of Black Women With Kinky Hair, 16/07/2014
  56. ^ Publishers Weekly, Indie Spotlight on Children’s Authors, 27/06/2014
  57. ^ The New York Times, Black Hair, Still Tangled in Politics, 26/08/2009
  58. ^ CNN International, Bronner Bros. show highlights natural hair, 22/02/2011
  59. ^ Huffington Post, Open Letter to Allure, The New York Times and Other "Lamestream" Publications: If You Don't Know, You Better Ask Somebody, 08/07/2015
  60. ^ Madame Figaro, Notre but : banaliser la mode afro et la beauté ethnique. , 26/01/2012
  61. ^ Le Point, En images : top 10 des meilleurs blogs féminins lifestyle, 05/09/2014
  62. ^ Le Monde, A quand une femme noire en couverture de "Elle" ?, 31/01/2012
  63. ^ MediaUpdate, AfroStyle Magazine issue 11 out now, 07/04/2015
  64. ^ Hellocoton, Perruque afro : nappy ou pas nappy?, 05/04/2011
  65. ^ Abidjan.net, Nappy attitude: Back to the roots !, 07/10/2011
  66. ^ a b L'Express, Jolies Nappy Girls, 26/01/2012
  67. ^ Réseau Outre-Mer 1re, La beauté noire et métisse, 05/05/2015
  68. ^ Madame Figaro, Cheveu afro : le naturel reprend ses droits, 17/052015
  69. ^ Mouv', Phénomène nappy : les Sénégalaises revendiquent leur coupe afro, 13/01/2014
  70. ^ Aufeminin, Coiffure afro : Le nappy sexy d'Inna Modja, 07/08/2015
  71. ^ Le Monde, Salon Boucles d’ébène (30 May - 1st June), 27/05/2015
  72. ^ FashizBlack, Océane Lebubura élue Miss NAPPY Paris 2015, 04/12/2014
  73. ^ Mediapart, 1ères Massalia Nappy Days : Marseille sous le signe de la créativité et de la beauté au naturel, 17/09/2014
  74. ^ FashizBlack, Abidjan accueille « Crépu d’Ebène », son 1er festival dédié aux cheveux naturels, 12/08/2014
  75. ^ Hellocoton, Le lexique Nappy, 21/04/2013
  76. ^ Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair, SAJA Publishing Company, 11/04/2014
  77. ^ Leslie DuBois, Natural Beauty, Little Prince Publishing, 21/09/2014

See also[edit]

Bibliography[edit]

Filmographie[edit]

Related items[edit]

Category:Subcultures Category:African-American culture

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