User:Marcel Geser/Xaver Bongard

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Xaver Bongard. Photo: Thomas Ulrich

Xaver Bongard (* 21 December 1963 in Fribourg; † 15 April 1994 in Lauterbrunnen) was a Swiss rock climber, mountaineer, ice climber and BASE-jumper.

Life[edit]

Xaver Bongard was born into a German speaking family living in Fribourg. By the age of 12, Bongard became a member of the alpine club of Fribourg. In the beginning of his climbing career Bongard was practicing a lot on the limestone cliffs of the Gastlosen (mountain range of the Swiss Prealps).[1] At the age of 18 he climbed the north face of the Eiger and the "Walker Pillar" on the Grandes Jorasses.[2] Between 1983 and 1993 Bongard became a world-known climber through numerous expeditions and first ascents. Most notably are his expedition on Baffin Island (with Peter Gobet), his solo ascent on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, the ascent of the northeast pillar at the Great Trango Tower in the Karakoram (with John Middendorf) and the first ascent of the icefall on the Breitwandfluh in the Kander valley (“Crack Baby” with Michael Gruber).[3] Being fascinated by the BASE-jumping scene in the United States of America, Bongard became a licensed skydiver in 1990. In the same year he did his first BASE-jump from El Capitan in Yosemite Valley.[4][5] One year after passing the UIAA mountain guide exam, Xaver Bongard died in April 1994 during a BASE-jump from “Staubbach” in the Lauterbrunnen valley.[6] In February 2023, Mammut released a video celebrating the 30th anniversary of the first ascent of the icefall on Breitwandfluh ("Crack Baby").[7]

Achievements[edit]

Source[8]

"Crack Baby" 1993. Photo: Thomas Ulrich
1982
  • North face of the Eiger (Bernese Alps), until V on rock, until 60° on ice
  • Grandes Jorasses, "Walker Pillar" (Mont Blanc massif), VI
1983
  • Four six-thousanders in Chile
1984
  • Chacraraju, 6112mASL (Peru), first ascent “Voie de l’amitié“, until VI on rock, until 90° on ice
1986
1987
  • Three first ascents on Baffin Island
  • El Capitan (Yosemite), “Iron Hawk”, 5.9, A4+, First solo ascent
  • El Capitan (Yosemite), “Lost in America”, 5.10, A5, First solo ascent
1988
  • El Capitan (Yosemite), “Sea of Dreams”, 5.10, A5, First solo ascent
  • El Capitan (Yosemite), “Jolly Roger”, 5.10, A5, First solo ascent
1992
1993
  • “Crack Baby” (icefall on the Breitwandfluh, Kander valley), V6, first ascent.

BASE-Jumping[edit]

In 1989 Bongard met Will Oxx in Yosemite National Park.[9] They became close friends and appeared together in the climbing movie “RockNRoad” from 1993.[10] Will Oxx was an experienced climber and one of the first BASE-jumpers in the world (BASE#41).[11] Bongard was fascinated by this young sport and started his BASE-jumping career with a jump from El Capitan in Yosemite Valley together with Oxx in 1990. This made him the first Swiss BASE-jumper. Bongard used to tell Will Oxx about a valley with steep rock walls close to his home (Interlaken) where one could certainly do BASE-jumps. In 1991 Bongard was the second person to jump from the exit “Staubbach” in the Lauterbrunnen valley. In the same year Bongard and Oxx opened the exits “Yellow Ocean”, “Isenfluh” and “Unterbach”. These first BASE-jumps in Switzerland were photographed by Thomas Ulrich. After jumping from all four types of objects (Building, Antenna, Span and Earth), Bongard got BASE#362.[12]

Xaver Bongard jumps from Staubbach. Photo: Thomas Ulrich

On April 15, 1994, Bongard jumped from “Staubbach” with Franck Konrad. At that time Bongard was using a “Sorcerer” rig from Vertigo BASE Outfitters, a two-parachute BASE-system. After the main parachute did not open well, Bongard pulled the reserve parachute which opened with line twists. Bongard hit the rock and died from his injuries at the scene of the accident.[13][14] According to the “BASE Fatality List” which documents every fatality worldwide since the beginning of the sport, Bongard was the 31st person who died through BASE-jumping.[15] He became the first BASE-fatality in Switzerland. Bongard left behind his parents, his sister and his partner. At the funeral in the catholic church of Interlaken, John Middendorf held an obituary.[16] The BASE-pioneers Xaver Bongard and Will Oxx made Lauterbrunnen a Mecca for BASE-jumping. A memorial plaque for Xaver Bongard was installed at the exit point “Yellow Ocean” by the “Swiss BASE Association”.

References[edit]

  1. ^ Ulrich Remanofsky: Wen die Götter lieben - Schicksale von elf Extrembergsteigern. 1., erste Auflage. Alpinverlag, Bad Häring 2011, ISBN 978-3-902656-09-4.
  2. ^ Ulrich Remanofsky: Wen die Götter lieben - Schicksale von elf Extrembergsteigern. 1., erste Auflage. Alpinverlag, Bad Häring 2011, ISBN 978-3-902656-09-4.
  3. ^ Ulrich Remanofsky: Wen die Götter lieben - Schicksale von elf Extrembergsteigern. 1., erste Auflage. Alpinverlag, Bad Häring 2011, ISBN 978-3-902656-09-4.
  4. ^ Ulrich Remanofsky: Wen die Götter lieben - Schicksale von elf Extrembergsteigern. 1., erste Auflage. Alpinverlag, Bad Häring 2011, ISBN 978-3-902656-09-4.
  5. ^ Will Oxx (2021-10-21). "Tribute to Xaver Bongard"[1]. Retrieved 2021-12-31.
  6. ^ Ulrich Remanofsky: Wen die Götter lieben - Schicksale von elf Extrembergsteigern. 1., erste Auflage. Alpinverlag, Bad Häring 2011, ISBN 978-3-902656-09-4.
  7. ^ Crack Baby | Stephan Siegrist leads tribute ice route in Kandersteg, 30 years after the first ascent, retrieved 2023-04-30
  8. ^ Wen die Götter lieben - Schicksale von elf Extrembergsteigern (1., erste Auflage ed.). Alpinverlag. 2011. ISBN 978-3-902656-09-4.
  9. ^ Will Oxx (2021-10-21). "Tribute to Xaver Bongard". Retrieved 2021-12-31.
  10. ^ John Middendorf (2021-06-07). "RockNRoad. First Clean Ascent of the Shield by Charlie Fowler, Xaver Bongard, Will Oxx, and Beth Wald". YouTube. Retrieved 2021-12-21.
  11. ^ Will Oxx (2021-10-21). "Tribute to Xaver Bongard". Retrieved 2021-12-31.
  12. ^ Will Oxx (2021-10-21). "Tribute to Xaver Bongard". Retrieved 2021-12-21.
  13. ^ Wen die Götter lieben - Schicksale von elf Extrembergsteigern (1., erste Auflage ed.). Alpinverlag. 2011. ISBN 978-3-902656-09-4.
  14. ^ Outside Magazine (1994-09-01). "Milestones: Xaver Bongard, 1964-1994". Outside Magazine. Retrieved 2021-12-21. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |kommentar= ignored (help)
  15. ^ Base Fatality List. "Xaver Bongard". Retrieved 2021-12-21.
  16. ^ John Middendorf. "Xaver Bongard Obituary". Retrieved 2021-12-21.

[[Category:1994 deaths]] [[Category:1963 births]] [[Category:Swiss people]] [[Category:Swiss mountain climbers]]

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